Info on ferrets - By Ferret Happy

 

 



TEN THINGS A FERRET ASKS OF ITS KEEPERS

 

1. My life is likely to last 6-9 years. Any separation from you will be painful for me. Remember that before you buy me.

2. Give me time to understand what you want from me.

3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well being.

4. Don't be angry at me for long, and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your entertainment and your friends. I have only you and your toes.

5. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I do not understand the words, I understand your voice when you are speaking to me.

6. Be aware that however you trust me, I will never forget.

7. Remember before you punish me that I have jaws that could easily crush the bones of your hand, but I have chosen not to bite you that hard.

8. Before you scold me for being "uncooperative", "obstinate" or "sad", ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I am not getting the right attention or I am sick.

9. Take care of me when I get old; you too will grow old.

10. Go with me on difficult journeys. never say, "I can't bear to watch it" or "Let it happen in my absence". Please never say, "Let the vet do it". Everything is easier for me if you are there.

 


basices 
(housing, cage,bedding,feeding Area,litter tray)

 food and treats
(Daily feed, treats, unsafe or dangerous foods)

health and safety
(Nail Trimming ,Ear cleaning ,Bathing, Desexing, Descenting, Worming, Vaccinations, Health Warnings)

Basics
  • Ferrets are happiest in pairs or in small groups,
    especially young ferrets as they are very demanding.

    Adults tend to be calmer and can be more suitable for first time ferret owners. Most desexed ferrets will get on with others but new ferrets will require time to settle into the household.


Housing
  • Ferrets must be kept in a cool area - under 27 degrees C - or they can quickly die of heatstroke, especially in summer. Ferrets can be happily housed in a cage either outside under the verandah or balcony, or they can have the run of the house or a spare room.
  • Regardless of their living arrangements, ferrets need socialising every day for at least a couple of hours. Ferrets that are left in cages can become unsociable, nippy and hard to handle or they can become depressed.


The Cage
  • A simple metal frame with a minimum size of 2m by 2m or larger with 1/2 inch wire mesh (depending on size of smallest ferret) and a solid weatherproof overhanging roof. This will suitble accommodate 2 ferrets.  T
  • The cage can be divided into levels using hammocks or shade cloth and flexible pipes to link levels provides more space and activities. Bird aviaries with a solid floor also make excellent homes for groups of ferrets. Levels, ramps, piping, hammocks etc can be used to create more space to sleep and play. The floor should be solid, or very small gauge wire. 

 

Sleeping Box/Bag

  • A weatherproof plastic or wooden box (like a bird box) with easily accessible entrance hold is suitable. Bedding can be old towels, clothes, blankets etc as long as they are clean. Woodshavings and sawdust are is a NO as they can be inhaled or swallowed and cause fatal blockages.
  • Aside from boxes, you can also provide a sleeping bag or similar, which will provide sufficience warmth in winter. 

Feeding Area
  • A section of cage away from the litter tray (with a solid floor that prevents food dropping through the wire) is fine as a feeding area. Solid heavy bowls for food and water are best as ferrets enjoy tipping bowls over! Most owners find mounted bottles best for water, as they are less messy.


Litter Tray
  • A basic cat litter tray situated in a corner will do, although a high corner tray is better as ferrets can back too far into the corner. Litter should be cleaned daily, but be aware that some ferrets will not use litter if it is too clean, so leaving a small amount of poop can encourage use. If your ferret starts digging or playing in the litter tray, you will know it is too clean.
  • The Best type of to use is Breeders or Yesterdays News Papper as its safe, cheap, easy to clean up



Food & Treats


DAILY:

  • Fresh water at all times! Fresh raw chopped meat such as lamb, beef, chicken, rabbit (fatty is better than lean) . High in Protean dry food . Ferrets can be fussy so you may have to experiment a little until you find something your ferret will eat.


WEEKLY:

  • Raw chicken wings or necks to help clean their teeth. Any uneaten meat or chicken should be removed after a few hours (sooner in hot weather) to prevent it from spoiling.


TREATS:

  • Milk (Pets Milk only )  Whiskas Cat Milk or pet own is good - regular milk causes diahorrea and soy milk can interfere with absorption of calcium from food.
  • Egg yolk (not egg white) with a few drops of Omega 3 oil 
  • A small amount of soft fruits or vegetables such as banana, tomato or raisens. Hard food like carrots, apples etc can cause fatal blockages.

NEVER GIVE


  • regular dairy products, chocolate, fish-based biscuits or meat, cooked bones, salt, dried coconut, dog's leather hide chews, sausage mince. These foods are either dangerous choking hazards or potentially poisonous to ferrets


    Health and Safety

  • Nail Trimming

    • Ferret nails grow rapidly and need clipping weekly or fortnightly depending on your ferret. You can use special cat clippers or strong human clippers (like toe nail clippers).
    • Scruffing the ferret is often necessary, but because some ferrets dislike being scruffed, distracting them with a treat like Nutripet will help. Cut the nail short, but avoid the pink vein running inside the nail which is easily visible. If you cut the vein, the ferret will let you know! They may squeal and might try to bite from fear. Just hold them and reassure them, and if necessary, apply a gentle antiseptic cream.
    • If you need help or to be shown how to do it ,ill be most happy to help

      Ear Cleaning

    • Ears need regular cleaning too. You will know when they are dirty as the ear wax is a dark red, almost black (it can be a shock when you first clean them as it does look like blood). Use a warm, moist cotton bud to gently wipe the grit out of the ear, only as far as you can see - do not go too far inside the folds of the ear as this can hurt the ferret. Again, you may need to distract the ferret with a treat while doing this. Be on the look out for mites as they often live in the ears!
    • If you have trouble with nail clipping or ear cleaning, contact me and ill be happy to help


    Bathing
    • Most ferrets tolerate having a warm bath or shower. Use baby shampoo or herbal pet products to wash your ferret every two months or so if needed. More frequent bathing can cause dry skin, which causes the ferret to produce more oil and smell more. Flea products that are kitten and puppy formulated are safe (eg. Di Flea for Kittens, Frontline and Program). Do not use formulas made for adult cats or dogs.
    • Although some ferrets enjoy a bath, others hate it. If your ferret is particularly fearful, they may prefer taking a shower with you! Holding them gently against you as you wash them can help calm them and allows them to trust you more.


    Desexing
    • Desexing is a must, especially for females. We recommend desexing from around six (6) months of age. A female (Jill) will come into season around September and will remain in season until she is desexed, mated or receives an injection from a vet to bring her out of season. Unless she is brought out of season there is a real danger of the ferret dying from anaemia!
    • A male (Hob) also comes into season around the same time and can lose up to 40% of his body weight. This is normal for a male and there is no need for concern. There will be a colour change (yellowing) and you will also notice that his odour becomes very strong, unpleasant and no amount of bathing will eradicate it. He may also become quite aggressive and try very hard to escape his cage in search of a mate.


    Descenting
    • The i dont recommend descenting of ferrets. This is an unnecessary operation and does not decrease smell.


    Vaccinations
    • All ferrets need to be vaccinated against canine distemper once a year. We recommend the use of Canvac DA2 or CSL C3 at 1/6 (one sixth) to 1/4 (one-quarter) dog dose.


    Worming
    • Ferrets are susceptible to the same worm parasites as cats and dogs (roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm) abd routine treatment is recommended. To prevent heartworm, the NSWFWS uses Oral Ivomec which also protects against intestinal worms (except tapeworm). It can also prevent sarcoptic mange (skin mites) and ear mites. Consult your vet for dosage.


      WARNING:

      Human flu virus can be caught by your ferrets and vice versa. If infected with the flu keep your ferret warm and monitor food and water intake. If the ferret has nasal discharge, seek veterinary advice, as antibiotics might be needed.
    • As a precaution, try not to handle the ferret too much while either of you are ill, and be sure to wash your hands after handlin

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